La Grave

La Grave is an off piste ski mecca. The town itself is a slightly mad mix of 'subculture' hipness and extreme sport freaks. There is definately something in the water in this part of the Alps that gives the place a more random feel than areas such as Chamonix!

From the town an antiquated lift system serves as access into some wild mountain ski territory, taking you from 1450m to 3200m. From here a lift tow takes you even higher onto the glacier itself and the link across to the Les Deux Alpes ski resort.

I'd first managed to ski La Grave a couple of years back. It had long been on my list of ski trips to do, and fortunately that trip was blessed by good weather and some fresh snow (especially welcome as there had little snow for almost a month prior to this).

Finding ourselves back in Les Deux Alpes for another family ski holiday and I was keen to do a return trip to La Grave. Needing some company for the trip I booked in with the ESS who I've used before and have been excellent. Traditionally they run the La Grave trip on a Wednesday, but want you to have a 'pre-test' on the Monday to check your skiing is up to the task! I dutifully turn up for my informal assessment.


Following Rene....

Our instructor was a talented Italian chap, Rene, who took us for a ski off the main slope of Les Deux Alpes giving useful instruction all the way. With lots of fresh snow the skiing was superb, even if the day was a little grey. At the bottom Rene asks do we want to go again - too right we do!

Wednesday arrives and its a bluebird day, but will the link to La Grave open, and will La Grave itself open? The recent week or so has seen lots of snow, but with this snow comes increased avalanche risk. In addition the link hits heights of 3600m and frequently has to close due to high winds...

Initial reports are not good. The link hasn't opened and neither has La Grave. We opt for an off piste day around Les Deux Alpes. No point waisting an opportunity to ski with a local instructor who will know all the secret powder pockets!

Powder fun

First run is on the Vallee Blanche side of the resort, and we're soon skiing some excellent powder. At the bottom Rene checks the current information. La Grave is opening, but will the link? We opt to chance it and start heading up to the glacier via the Jandri lift, and then the funicular train. Arriving at around 3400m we are blasted by winds and spindrift - it doesn't seem too hopeful.

However the final ski tow opens and we head for the link to La Grave. We may get there yet! At the top of the tow we have to pay 20E to cover the use of the La Grave lifts, and then its a tow to the top of the glacier at La Grave by being dragged along by a piste bashing wagon! This is entertaining to say the least.......

Preparing for the tow.

We finally reach the La Grave side of the glacier - the gamble has paid off. We descend to the top lift station using the only pisted run at La Grave. This crosses the glacier and is the safest way to descend especially without crevasse rescue kit, plus our guide can't take us off piste on the glacier itself.

At the station the main runs down La Grave take off. One side is the classic 'Vallons la Meije' whilst the other is the 'Vallons la Chancel' with lots of options in between. The locals know of many more routes!

Our first run is down the 'Vallons la Meije'. Most of the route has already been well skied, although powder lines can still be found. We set off on a descent down this wild and fabulous valley. High on our right the steep cliff faces still have sections of glacier with hanging seracs. It is an awesome place.

We enjoy the skiing, with Rene offering much constructive tuition on our functional but less than perfect off piste ski technique! Regularly he stops to give us more advice on those subtle movements that turn your ski technique into the brilliance you aspire to. Alas it needs lots of practise and more time away in great places like La Grave.

Eventually we hit the tree line, and most of the group enjoy the tights turns amongst moguls and trees. Eventually we hit the station at 1800m. This is basically a pylon sticking out of the forest where you can join the cable car without hitting the valley bottom. The lift at La Grave is a bit of a classic experience in itself!

Time for one more run before we have to try and hit the link back to La Grave. We start on the 'Chancel' side before reaching a col and dropping back onto the 'Vallons' side. From here we traverse across and join the mid station at 2400m.

Back at the top we stop at the top station restaurant for coffee and a bit of food - all very civilised! Some food and chat and suddenly we realise its almost 1530 hrs when the top tow shuts. Hastily we shuffle out and over to a waiting piste basher for another tow to take us to the base of the actual ski tow. This piste basher has two rope lines behind it with regularly knotted loops.

By the time all the remaining skiers had been gathered up there must have been close to 50+ of us behind the wagon! Surely recipe for disaster?! The tow goes surprisingly well until the end when one skier goes over and takes out a few others.

We grab the last ski tow to take us back to the top of the glacier. The rest of the link is shut though due to the wind so its going to be a bit of a walk back to Les Deux Alpe. As I'm dragged by the tow the sun drops behind the ridge in front of me and lights the skyline. The light captures the bubbling mass of spindrift snow being blown by the high wind - its going to be harsh once on the exposed glacier...........

Sure enough once at the top of the tow we are blasted by wind and spindrift. We gather as a group and press on. Its an initial slog up before reaching the undulating top of the glacier, where we shuffle and occasionally ski our way back to the resort.

Once officially back on the Les Deux Alpe side of the glacier I look back and see some lights through the spindrift. One of the ski patrol is passing on a skidoo. A line is thrown from the back and we get another powered tow but this time from a skidoo - this became interesting when we started to go downhill and the tracks of the skidoo got very close! We let go very quickly.

We enjoy a final ski back to base, via empty pistes on great snow, which became even more enjoyable when we got out of the wind. Rene takes for a final off piste run back to the resort base and a well earned large glass of Leffe! A classic day. I really do like La Grave.

The kids go caving...

End of the xmas holidays and my good friend Ali and I decide to take our children on a local caving trip. Up on the hill behind where I live is the Lesser Garth Cave, from which its possible to gain access to another cave, Ogof Ffynnon Taf. Once upon a time it was possible to do a through trip between the two caves but soon after the discovery of Ogof Ffynnon Taf in the late eighties the entrance was blocked by quarrying operations. Now the only way to get to the cave is via Lesser Garth Cave and a short, but sinuous series of passageways!

The kids (two at 11 years and one at 9) enjoy caving and are getting more capable, hence we thought the sporting trip into the Ogof Ffynnon Taf system would be a good trip for them. Gaining the cave involves a good steep stomp up the side of the Lesser Garth Hill. With the recent wet weather and a good layer of rotting leaves this proved even slippier than normal!

Cave entrance gained we quickly got sorted and the kids trooped off into the cave, leading the way, aware that some reasonable drops down would soon be encountered. At this point the climb down to the right drops into the main passageway of the Lesser Garth Cave, whilst to the right is a 30ft drop down a rift. This is the route to the Ffynnon Taf connection.

We rigged the pitch with ladder and rope. The older two, Emily and Rhys, abseil down the pitch on Petzl stops whilst young Tom opts for the ladder.



Tom starting the descent

At the bottom of the rift we remove all excess lit and proceed to the first serious obstacle - a tight squeeze. This was really only a problem for Ali and me - the kids virtually walked through......


..through the squeeze...

From here the route sort of zig zags through sections of roomier passageway linked by tighter bits! Of note is the 'coffin' which takes you into a rift and then the final challenge - a squeeze through a small hole into the top of a calcited rift. At the end a climb out takes you into Ffynnon Taf. The kids lead the way through all of this, working out the route (with some adult guidance) and helping each other out.

Ali's wellies disappearing into the 'coffin'.

The main chamber of Ffynnon Taf is on two levels and well decorated. Sections of the flowstone are covered in meshes of tree routes, while in a couple of places the remains of cat skeletons, now covered in calcite can also be found. The lower section also has some very fine curtain formations. This whole section of cave is in excellent condition, in contrast to the vandalism that is evident in the more accessible parts of the Lesser Garth Cave. Why can't people respect these places?


Short curtains in the lower section.

Calcited cat bones

Larger Curtain formations

Light shining through a 'curtain' showing the streaky lines

Some live cave residents were also found. We carefully avoided a resting Lesser Horseshoe Bat, whilst I had a quick scan for the possible presence of the tiny cave spider, Porrhomma rosenhaueri. In a small calcited crack I was rewarded with finding a live spider on its web - the first time the spider had been found in this part of the cave system.

A mesh of tree roots on the flowstone.

After some chocolate it was time to head out. The kids took the lead and we virtually stormed out through the gnarly bits and then up the pitch, before slithering back down the slope to Morganstown. Our reward was beer (for the adults) and food in the Tynant Inn! A great kiddy trip!!!

On the return....

Back in the 'coffin'

Emily in the rift 'squeeze'

With Ali in the same squeeze for comparison!

Up the pitch....

..and slither down the hill.

The trip to Ffynnon Taf is a short but sporty trip as demonstrated further by this great bit of video by Keith and other members of the Dudely crew;

Remember caving can be a dangerous sport - don't go to these places unless you know how to look after yourself and others, and are respectful of the environment.

White Christmas

Leaving the top telesiege to the Puy St Vincent ski resort we slide to the top of a black ski run called Carmen. But this is not our destination. We kick off the skis and strap them to our rucsacs - our adventure is off the back of the resort......

Mark leads the way, after all this is his backyard (and what a backyard....). We stomp up for a few hundred metres gaining the proper summit of La Pendine.



Late afternoon on Boxing day 2012 - Mark approaching top of La Pendine

Fellow skiers approaching the summit of La Pendine (taken two days later to the above)

The day is sunny and clear with glorious views of the mountains all around. We stop to admire before clipping back into the skis. Mark had already been this way today and knew conditions were good. Just as well as the Col we needed to gain was still over half a km along the ridge either side of which are cliffs and rock bands. Not somewhere to get your ski turns wrong.

Skis on we follow the side of the ridge following the tracks made by Mark and a few others earlier in the day. A few easy turns are needed but they feel alot harder knowing that error is to be avoided! We slither between a few rocks and a bit of side stepping up is needed before the final section to the Col du Bal is reached.

Mark on the ridge line looking to the end of the Narreyroux Valley

At the col I look down. The initial snow head-wall looks pretty steep! Fortunately its only the first move that's the hardest. As we ready for our descent we are joined by two fellow Brits, both of whom are friends of Mark.

Looking back along the ridge form the Col

I leave the Col following Mark, sliding to the right and avoiding the rocks. The first turn is made on an easing of the slope and its off! The snow is superb and a few good warm up turns are made, before stopping to take in the atmosphere and the terrain we're in.

Leaving the Col

Enjoying great snow!

The descent into the Narreyroux valley continues with whoops of joy as the four of us making fresh tracks all the way. Powder turns are made all the way into the valley floor, and its only when we reach the bottom track do the snow conditions deteriorate.

Mark on the descent (taken two days later after some more fresh snow)

Making tracks in the powder......

...as we start to approach the tree line.

All that remained now was to skitter back to the cars and a celebratory beer for a fine trip! This proved entertaining in its own right. The valley track was frozen solid and uneven - a right old knee bashing on the skis.

Descending back to the ski station in the last light of the day.

Two days later we both went for it again. Some fresh snow and the snow pack looking stable then it had to be done again! Conditions had changed on the ridgeline and we left the ridge before reaching the actual col. The descent was again superb and fortunately the bottom ski out was much nicer with the fresh snow. A real treat to have such good back country conditions over the christmas period.

Leaving the ridge on the second run two days later. A few more skiers around this time!

The route in blue.



Riding the Bore (at least trying to.....)

A 0430 start to meet Taran, Jay and Kate at Newnham for 0630. The reason - to have a bash at riding the famous tidal wave - the Severn Bore.

Saturday saw a predicted 3 star wave hitting Hewnham at around 0800, but many factors affect the wave such as weather, wind direction and water levels in the river. Thus height and time predictions are merely a guide - mother nature may well have other ideas....

Arriving at Newnham for close to 0630 I was surprised to find we were the only people there. However by the time the wave was due the place was buzzing with sightseers, kayakers and surfers!

This was he first time both seeing and riding the famous Severn Bore wave, and I have to admit to starting to get apprehensive about the idea. Was I going to simply get mashed up?

We got ready, sorted the shuttle, and got onto the river. Some experienced kayakers were on hand and I quietly quizzed them for advice!

Contemplating my fate..... Picture by Taran

The river levels were high and the current strong. Sand banks that were normally exposed were covered. Taran was in his sea boat and we joked about the expected bongo slid clearing a path on the wave!

You hear the wave before you see it - a distant rumble becomes apparent and then you see this river wide ridge of whitewater approaching. Ahead and amongst it a throng of surfers and kayakers.

Nerves clear as you get entranced by this amazing natural wonder thats sweeping towards you. No option now but to have a go.......

Taran of our group is first to greet the wave and is immediately swept into a bongo slide, all captured on his Go Pro. Enjoy the video!

Taking my cue from the other guys I start my paddle and the wave sweeps into me. An initial bit of bongoing and then I turn onto the top of the wave and hey I'm surfing... A bit of playing and I'm back on the wavefront and again sideways so get back onto the top of the wave. However I let myself drop a little too far back and can't regain the wavefront... My ride is over.

I regroup with Taran an we discuss options. Briefly we see if we can get back to Newnham on the current edges, but no chance against the tide. We notice Jay and Kate further upstream on the river edge and join them, and soon a group of us are whizzing along the tidal current to the get-out at the Severn Bore Pub.

Enjoying the 10 mile paddle to the get-out point. Picture by Taran

The paddle to the Pub proves an enjoyable trip, ripping along the tidal current and enjoying the scenery, company and varying weather. Both me and Taran finished with silly grins on our faces!

Journeys end. Picture by Taran

So whilst I was only on the wave for a few hundred metres it was a great experience and one I will try again. Well worth the 'stupid o clock' start!

Autumns End.........

Last official day of Autumn - winter from here! Weathers looking pretty OK so its a flexiday off work and a late afternoon run on the hill with the dog......

I go for the classic Central Beacons loop. Easy to get to and it will be quite on a friday afternoon. Park up at Storey Arms, up to Corn Du, Pen Y Fan and Cribyn. Down the Gap road then across the valley at the reservoir to regain the ridge and back to Y Gwynt. Then down the 'toilet track' and back to the car.



Up the track alongside Storey Arms, with Fan Fawr just holding onto a wisp of cloud.

Banks of cloud swirl over the col between the classic flat tops of Corn Du and Pen y Fan.

Looking back towards Corn Du from Pen y Fan.

The flat summits are an ancient seafloor. How many walk across these tops but never notice the fossilised sand waves under their feet?

Still water at the reservoir before beginning the return leg of the run.

Cloud hugs the side of the ridge and the main peaks, highlighting further the texture and shapes of the landscape.

The sun sets as I run along the ridge. Cloud obscures the view on the horizon.........

....though a final glimpse of the last sun of autumn is just gained as it sinks behind the distant hills.

Looking back west across the Brecon Beacons from Y Gwynt.

Dog at dusk.

A final view of last light before the final run off the hill and back home. A definate 'Autumns End'.

Voyage of the Dawn Treaders......

Finally a weekend arrives where some sea paddling becomes viable again! An excellent forecast sees Taran come up with an ambituous paddling plan - Sully to Steep Holm, then across the Brean Down and back.... oh and we had to be on the water by 7.00am. Early start then.

A dawn start................

Stuart and Eurion joined us for the fun so I with some serious seakayaking expertise. The morning was cold and clear and twilight was in the sky as we gathered the boats on the beach. As we set off the causeway to Sully Island had only just flooded, and some sporty tidal waves greated us as we past the island. Taran returned through the waves for seconds!

 

As we paddled out on a wide vector for Steep Holm island we were greated by a superb sunrise. Soon we became pretty spread out, with me gradually starting to lag behind the others - think I need a faster boat or bigger arm muscles......

Sunrise on the water

Steepholm in the distance

A quick stop is made on Steepholm to stretch the legs and empty the bladder. However our intended destination is looking less likely. We were later on the water than ideal, and were running out of time before the tide turned. We paddled on for about a mile, but decided the better option was to turn round and use the tide to get us to Flatholm.

Mist caps Steepholm as we turn to head for Flatholm

A following sea and some lumpy waters made the ride to Flatholm fun. A stop was made to stretch legs and scoff some fodder, and whilst on the island we met up with another paddler Hywel who joined us for the journey back. By the time we set of again the tide had well and truly turned and flatholm had soon whizzed past, though in the wrong direction. A hard paddle angle was needed to cross the tide and return to Sully Island without missing it!

Preparing to leave Flatholm

Stuart playing in the tidal race around one of the Cardinal bouys

Soon we're in the calmer waters at the back of Sully Island., and its still only midday. A good trip, cheers guys.

Running up that hill.......

The Snowdonia Marathon - the first 'proper' marathon i.e. my first official event of 26.2 miles of mainly road running. This event had long been on the radar to do, in fact I did once plan to do it (when you could still enter on the day) but a cold bug had other ideas.....

To me this road marathon has allot going for it - good atmosphere, great scenery (if its not raining...) and a challenging course. Its also cheaper to enter than many races less than half it distance, though if you want value for money misery then do a decent fell-race (provided you're prepared for it)!

During the week before doing the race didn't look good. After an evening run with the local fell running club I once again come down with streaming snot and lots of sneezing. Several early nights and some severe Lemsip overdosing I find myself meeting up with other Les Croupiers club members in a guest house on the edge of Llanberis. A good evening of chat, food,and a few gentle pints* is had before retiring to bed.....

The morning and we're treated to a fine sunset and the start of a beautiful day - a rare treat for this event! Wandering to the start I'm approached by an S4C crew and asked about my well speaking abilities. My reply yng gymraeg must have said it all as they replied 'I was safe'!

The first few miles are run gently - its a long way and the second half is tougher so no need for heroics..... I plod on enjoying the view and remembering some of the climbs on the classic crags all around, from the mighty Mot and the fantastic Cromlech.

After around 4-5 miles you are at the top of the pass. From here its effectively downhill into Beddgelert and the half way mark. I continue reasonably gently but a mile or two of offroad is soon met. I can't resist and off come the brakes..... soon its back on road, and after  a short and sharp pull uphill its back onto the main road.

Beddgelert is reached in 1:30 - faster than anticipated. The question is now whether its too fast? The second half will soon tell. Its effectively steadily uphill out of Beddgelert and the miles soon start to grind, made harder by a surprisingly strong wind. I cheekily tuck behind a couple of runners. I would have done a turn at the front but the pace keeps picking up when I try and so I settle in behind for a mile or two.

The runners I'm with gradually disappear ahead, and I let them go. Meanwhile I pass a gradual but steady stream of slowing runners. Around 18/19 miles and the calfs are feeling tight and close to cramp - the lack of road running miles is starting to be felt so I start to tuck into my emergency gel and energy sweets.

At the last decent hilly section the 4th placed lady comes steaming past in fine form. My fell legs feel road swamped so I grab more gels, flapjack and water at the Waunfawr feed station - a veritable feast. I steadily plod and feed for the next half mile or so and lose a few places.

Gradually pace returns and the legs bounce back a bit. I up the grind pace and reclaim some lost places. Soon its time for the last mile. This is a rough dirt track, and its downhill back into Llanberis. Now downhill is often harder than up, especially on mashed legs, but the fell runner emerges and I go for it, flying past a good half dozen or so of fellow runners on the way.

A final dash to the finish and the marathon is completed in a decent 3hr 12mins. A very pleasing result though going down stairs did hurt for a couple of days....

On the finishing straight. Picture Gafin Griffiths, www.lescroupiersrunningclub.org.uk

So would I run it again? Certainly! Its a hard but enjoyable race thats friendly, organised and in a great part of the world.


*A decent local brew of 3.6% called 'Bog Standard'.